Pizzeria Via Mercanti

I was told by my Pizza/Twitter friend Craig (@JustAPizzaCook) to swing by the newly opened Via Mercanti in Kensington Market.  I’m always down for a Neapolitan pie, especially when I know it’s done by people who get it.  Mercanti is owned and operated by Queen Margherita’s two head pizzaiolo (or ex-pizzaiolo I suppose) and housed in what was once Back Alley Woodfire BBQ and Grill.  We spoke with one of the Pizzaiolo who said he had worked the oven for them for a while and showed interest in the space.  One day the owners arrived at Queen Margherita and handed him the keys and from there it was transformed into Via Mercanti.  While I was bummed I didn’t get to try some of the cool sounding pies at Woodfire I was ecstatic about another Neapolitan joint in town.  And in Kensington Market!  How the shit am I going to be able to go through there without grabbing a pie now?!  We were told when we arrived they had just opened 5 days before.  That being said, this review will be defunct in a few weeks.  When we swung by they were still using the ovens that were there from the previous owners.  While they got the job done and seemed to perform quite well, they are nothing in comparison to the Naples built oven they’ll be receiving in a couple weeks.  The pies will likely change slightly when that happens (for the better) so keep that in mind.

 The menu was quite cool and while authentic and traditional had some neat things I had either never heard of or only read about.  For one, we started with a round of bocconcini pizza which are basically Italian pizza pops.  Nothing like comparing beautiful, authentic Italian food to garbage stuffed garbage in a box, am I right?  The wood fired pizza balls are stuffed with ricotta and soppressata and blew everyone at the table away.  I could see myself stopping in for a pint and a handful of these alone.  Dipped in their super spicy chili oil these things will change your life.  The menu also includes all of your standard Neapolitan pies but they set themselves apart from the handful of other Neapolitan joints in the city by adding some traditional but very interesting twists.  Their namesake, the Via Mercanti is a combination of two pizzas with a classic Margherita on top and a pie with buffalo ricotta, ham, salami and mushrooms on the bottom.  I’ll need to go back for that one.  They also have folded pizzas which are different than calzones in that they are literally just pizzas, folded not quite in half and tossed in the oven.  Finally, the one that I had, the Ciambella Ripiena is a legit, authentic stuffed crust pizza.  Your standard Margherita but with a crust folded with salami, buffalo ricotta and black pepper.  

As a table we ordered the Margherita, Patate Salsiccia (fior di latte, potatoes, sausage and black pepper), and as I mentioned already the Ciambella Ripiena.  One thing I noticed while looking at the menu and making our selections is many of the pies had black pepper listed as an ingredient.  Both the Patate and the Ciambella included.  It didn’t dawn on me until tasting that this was quite unique.  Pepper isn’t a seasoning I've generally found on pizza, at least not here in North America - not sure about Naples.  That being said - I’m totally stealing this.  A bit of pepper gave the pies a bite that was refreshing and unique.

Ciambella Rapiena

Patate Salsiccia

Margherita

The Patate pie was very interesting.  The only other potato pie I’ve had was from Pizzaiolo which had thinly sliced potato... and I wasn’t a fan.  This however was much different in that the potatoes were grated onto the pie making an almost hash brown like topping (though not as crispy as a hash brown).  Mixed with the sausage and cheese it had a very homey feel.  The Margherita was, as it should be, simple.  Great, fresh tasting San Marzano sauce - naturally sweet with a touch of oil and sea salt. And fresh basil singed in the heat of the oven.  My pie, the Ciambella was my favourite.  Again, just your classic Margherita but the stuffed crust made it something else.  I love the idea of stuffed crust as you can see here but having a stuffed crust pie made with high quality ingredients by guys who know their shit took it to a whole new level.  I could have just eaten 4 pies worth of crust.

You can see in the pictures there isn’t quite as much tight, spotted char on the end crust as you might find at say Libretto or Pizza e Pazzi.  We spoke with one of the pizzaiolo who told us they actually do a single day ferment and quite often not even that long.  They make dough, and they use it. Here in North America Neapolitan pizza is a style of pizza.  And as with any food in a big city, there is always someone trying to do it at it’s best.  In Naples, Neapolitan pizza is... pizza.  This is not intended as a criticism but I realized at Mercanti they are just making it as they would make it in Naples (the Pizzaiolo we spoke with worked in pizzerias in Naples).  No fuss, no three day ferments, just pizza.  Pizza made with beautiful ingredients, made with care by the hands of people with thousands of hours and pies under their belt - but no fancy bells and whistles.  When put into perspective I find it rather refreshing.  

Like I said, the place is new and likely working out some kinks.  In addition, their new oven arrives soon.  In short, Mercanti has nowhere to go but up and I can’t wait to swing by again to see where they are at.  If you’re in or around Kensington or if you’re like me and need to try every Neapolitan pie in the city - head over to Via Mercanti.  Actually, just go - period.