Pizzeria Libretto - Danforth

I can’t believe I’m writing these words but I just last week had my first visit to Libretto Danforth.  We kept waiting for a special occasion, the right grouping of people, etc, etc but it never came up... until now!  It's MONTHS after opening (I’m guessing more than half a year after opening actually) but we made it. I was lucky to finally meet owner and chef Rocco Agostino which was exciting for me as I’ve been a fan for years.  Libretto, as I’ve said here before, is my mecca.  Before my first visit to Libretto Ossington when people would ask what my favourite food was I'd feel ridiculous saying pizza.  Who the shit doesn’t love pizza (if you’re reading this and it’s you - please leave, you’re not welcome here)? Of course everyone loves pizza.  Yet it wasn't until trying a REAL Neapolitan pie that I realized this thing that is so simple and so universally loved can also be complex, interesting and badass.  

The Danforth space is very cool.  Definitely more open and spacious than the Ossington location.  Danforth is also the only location of the two that takes reservations. Additionally they also have a semi private room you can book for parties (SaucedTO one year anniversary party perhaps???).  The menu is mostly the same as far as I could tell though specials are unique to each location. I was bummed I wasn’t there for the pork belly or broccoli puree specials but such is life. Boo.

As a table we ordered the Crimini Mushroom, Nduja Sausage and Prosciutto and Arugula.  All of which I’ve had... on multiple occasions (I realize my bias has already ruined my credibility but... whatever).  The cremini mushroom has a great creaminess from the mozzarella with the earthy mushrooms cutting through nicely.  I didn't have a slice of the arugula this time around but it’s one of my favourites.  Next to fresh basil, arugula is my favourite greens on pizza.  I love the flavour and crunch that comes from folding over a slice with arugula in the middle.  Finally, my pie, and my favourite pie in the city - the Nduja.  Nduja is a sweet sausage made with roasted red pepper and pork belly, shoulder, jowl and tripe.  It’s a touch spicy, almost sweet and allows the tomato sauce and cheese to balance it out nicely.  I’ve had this pie 4 times since the beginning of the year.  And apparently it’s Roccos favourite as well.      

I’ve done a write up on the Ossington location but I’ll talk a bit about the ideas behind the pies again as... that was an old post and the photos sucked.  My favourite things about Libretto pies are the flavour of the crumb (the inside of the bread) and the char on the end crust.  Both are a byproduct of their 3 day fermentation.  As the dough is kneaded, water and flour interact and the proteins in the flour called gliaden and glutelin come together to create gluten.  Gluten is what makes the dough stretchy and is the network of proteins that will make up the inner structure of the pizza.  Once the dough is kneaded and gluten has formed it is allowed to rest and double in size. After that it's rolled into balls and set aside in a cool place to ferment - much like a lager beer. Storing the dough in a cool place slows down the yeasts activity. We don't want the dough balls doubling in size however we do want our yeasty friends to continue doing their thing just... slower.  The yeast trapped inside the dough balls are alive until they are heated above 110 degrees (meaning they likely die almost instantly as the pie is tossed into the 900 degree oven).  As the yeast sits in the dough ball they are consuming the sugars in the flour.  Much like all of us, as they sit and eat... it’s gotta go somewhere (aren’t you glad we’re talking about food right now?!).  The yeast excretes alcohol and carbon dioxide into the dough.  The alcohol, again much like beer, flavours the dough giving it a more complex flavour.  The carbon dioxide that is excreted gets caught in the dough which creates little bubbles.  Left to ferment for 3 days, the inside of the dough is littered with tiny pockets of air.  It is this more airy dough that gives that beautiful charring you see on Libretto pies.  Picture the inside of a 3 day fermented dough ball, full of tiny pockets of air.  The tiny pockets that are closer to the outside leave weak little areas in the dough that in the extreme heat of the oven blister and open before the rest of the dough around it.  An overnight fermented dough with less bubbles would have less weak points and will likely brown before blistering (check these pies for an example of that).  That “burned” crust some people complain about is not only intentional but a big part of the flavour profile and look of a good Neapolitan pie.

Again, Libretto is my favourite place in the city.  Cool space, great staff, quick service and of course amazing food.  They are traditional yet take a modern approach and often - risks (they had a pineapple pie on special last week.  If I didn't trust them I’d call bullshit).  If you haven’t been to the Danforth location I’d certainly recommend it, although outside of location and the space, it’s not much different than Libretto Ossington.  I’m super hungry now...  Good thing I have leftover pizza from last night.  Shocker, I know.