The chain gang is a portion of this blog where I’ll be talking about chain pizza. I love a good pie. I’ve had pies from some of the best pizzerias in North America but like any normal, sane person I love fast, cheap pizza. Pizza that calls out to you at 1:00 am as you’re way too drunk, drinking your way down College St.. Pizza that whispers in your ear “You don’t want to deal with dinner tonight do you, baby? Let me take care of you tonight.” after a long day. I have no shame in this. Nor should you. But let’s make sure we call it what it is: chain pizza.
Pizzaiolo is a favourite of mine. They have something like 26 locations and I believe all are in Toronto. The recording studio I work at is entirely too close to one for someone with a pizza addiction like mine (Dundas/McCaul). The staff is great. The place is clean (and newly renovated!), and there are always some great pies ready to go. Pizzaiolo has a great selection of pies you can grab whole or by the slice. All are displayed behind glass on the counter. You can check the menu
here. I’ve had every pie on the menu and would honestly recommend any of them. Although, some like the ‘Fredo’ (Youkon Gold Potatoes, Olive Oil, Fresh Rosemary and Oregano) aren’t for everyone. Anyone who asks gets the same answer: Pizzaiolo is my favourite chain in the city.
There are things to keep in mind when talking about chain pizzerias; pizzerias that have to consistently turn out a lot of product that has to stay consistent. The main thing being that it is impossible to turn out consistent food, in many locations, with ingredients having to be shipped around, while still making a profit, without sacrificing quality. A good example of this technique in retaining consistency is their dough, which is brought in. Dough is a temperamental thing. Recipes have to be followed exactly, humidity will change how it handles, how it bakes and ultimately how it tastes and feels. If you don’t have a seasoned pizzaiolo there to calibrate the dough for those factors (among others) there is no way a place with 26 locations could keep any semblance of consistency. This isn’t McDonalds hamburger meat, this is fresh bread. That being said, for a place that doesn’t make their dough in house I am impressed with it’s structure, mouth feel, taste and consistency.
The guy behind the oven changes constantly and frankly some days he doesn’t give a shit (and it shows). But for the most part, I’d say a good 95% of the time these pies are pretty damn good.
Today I had the Gianni Ola (Dry cured pepperoni, Mushrooms, Bacon, Mozzarela and “Famous” Pizzailo Tomato Sauce). A favourite of mine as I love anything with meat on it while simultaneously being able to deceive myself into believing it’s alright because I’m having a vegetable. I’m a simple man, I fall for it every time. The pies are sturdy and handle the weight of the toppings well. Even some of the heavier pies stay together nicely. However, it’s not too crispy (which is a good thing in my books).
The pie gives you a quick crunch and then right into bready goodness. I’m a big pain and always ask for the slice with the puffiest end crust. On a bad day it’s good but on a good day it’s great. Again, we’re not talking award winning dough here but that quick crisp snap followed by a pillow of chewy, soft bread will win my heart any day. This pie is perfectly salty with the bacon and pepperoni balanced by a slightly earthy tinge from the mushrooms. The cheese… is what it is - processed aged mozzarella but certainly not bad at all. The sauce is a cooked down, herby and sweet but certainly not a highlight of the pie (but far from a detractor). It’s there, it doesn’t bother anyone, it gets the job done. One suggestion: make sure you watch them as they reheat your slice in the oven. Sometimes the person doling out slices gets a bit tied up or their mind wanders and it might stay in a few seconds too long (as you can see happened today). But if you’re really lucky you’ll get one fresh out of the oven!
In short, try it. If you are in a delivery zone for Pizzaiolo toss out your Pizza Pizza magnet. And for the record, if you’re planning on going soon - their more out there pies are their best (i.e. Bianca).
Carrie is on her way home from a hard day of work soon. I’m going to get sauced. You should do the same.
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